An Afternoon Sigh

Artichoke and Handmade Aioli

Aioli, as the Italians call, or mayonnaise, as it is known in France, is infinitely better when made at home than that found in jars. It is so easy, quick, fresh and flavorful that it is really a shame to resort to the mass produced variety. I call this "handmade", because much of the fun is in the vigorous wrist and hand action required to emulisfy the fresh egg yolks, extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice and garlic into your delectable sauce. Occasionally I get so enthusiastic about the magic that happens while whisking that my whole body gets into the act, like a whisk dance.

During yesterday's brief sunny spot, My Baby and I sat outside and soaked up our Oregon country view while savoring an enormous steamed artichoke with aioli and a LaVelle Winery 2007 Viognier. The light, sprightly, floral-nosed wine is becoming favorite of mine as it delivers a high value at this price point. I'm especially fond of its almond and peachy flavors and tangy acidity. I have mentioned before that this is a very nice life, haven't I?

The View Beyond Our Garden

As for the aioli, I make it in this small quantity when it's just My Baby and me so that we can consume it at the height of its freshness, but can easily be doubled. Use it on fresh fish of all kinds, a dab on sliced hard-cooked eggs topped with an anchovy fillet, roasted potatoes, crudite, or classically, pomme frite. Aioli is traditionally flavored with garlic only, but mayonnaise can have added flavor bonuses of capers, Dijon mustard, citrus zest, saffron, anchovy fillets, any combination of fresh minced herbs or any number of other enhancers to suit your mood.

Classic Aioli

2-3 cloves fresh garlic, smashed with about 1/2 teaspoonful salt in deep bowl

1 large egg yolk, room temperature (use the freshest you have as this is a big part of the flavor)

2 or so teaspoons fresh lemon juice

about 1 cup extra virgin olive oil (the variety you use will really shine here, so choose one you enjoy and that will enhance the other flavor components of the meal)

Add egg yolk and lemon juice to the smashed garlic in the bowl. A conical shaped bowl makes the whisking more effective. Whisk briefly to combine.

Using a simple wire whisk or fork, add the oil to the egg mixture drop by drop at first, then very slowly, whisking intensely as you go. Try to maintain a completely emulsified texture the whole time. If the aioli looks oily or "broken", stop adding oil and whisk whisk whisk away until it regains itself before continuing with more oil.

If the sauce gets too thick, add additional lemon juice (for tang) or warm water teaspoonful at a time. A warning: Adding more oil will only make it thicker. Taste for salt and pepper (white pepper is good, but I always love freshly cracked black) and add more garlic if you'd like.

Aioli is the very essence of freshness, so use within a couple of hours. It begins to loose it's personality with refrigeration, so make only what you can use right away. You can always make more tomorrow.